Insulation 101
Basic
facts on choosing and installing insulation in existing homes.

This
diagram shows the priorities for installing insulation in homes.
Need
to trim some dollars from your energy budget? Consider upgrading
your home's insulation.
Adding insulation is one of the most cost-effective ways to reduce
energy use, especially if you live in an older home. Homes built
before the widespread adoption of modern energy codes are prime
candidates for an insulation upgrade.
The amount of insulation recommended for different areas of your
home is specified by R-value. R-value is a measurement of resistance
to heat flow. As R-values get higher, insulating values increase.
Insulation gets its power from the air spaces it traps, not the
actual insulation material. Compressing insulation actually decreases
its effectiveness; that's why you shouldn't try to cram a six-inch
fiberglass blanket into a three-inch space. Instead, opt for a thinner
blanket.
Adding insulation in attics, crawl spaces and basements can be relatively
easy. On the other hand, adding insulation in existing walls or
vaulted ceilings can be expensive and extremely difficult, if not
entirely impossible.
The most important place to add insulation in most existing homes
is ceilings under unconditioned attics. Attics can steal your home's
heating and cooling since their temperatures can be higher than
120 degrees in the summer and the same as the outdoor temperature
in the winter. The minimum recommended insulation level for attics
in Walton EMC?s service area is R-30.
Knee walls, short walls adjacent to attic spaces in upstairs areas,
also need attention. Although called walls, knee walls are more
like ceilings in a thermal sense. And even though knee walls may
be insulated when the home is built, insulation commonly falls out
because of gravity and poor installation. Try to insulate knee walls
to R-19.
Don't forget ductwork that runs through attic spaces. Un-insulated
attic ductwork can lose up to 30 percent of the cooling your air
conditioning produces. That means you're paying 30 percent more
than you should in energy bills. Ductwork should be insulated with
a minimum of R-6 foil backed insulation. Joints in ducts should
be sealed with mastic. You'll want to call a professional for duct
insulation and sealing.
Many floors over crawlspaces are relatively easy to insulate. Besides
reducing heat loss in the winter, insulating floors can help tile
and linoleum feel warmer. The recommended level of floor insulation
for our area is R-19.
Installing insulation yourself can save even more. Be sure to use
protective equipment, like respirators, gloves and long sleeves.
If the areas are difficult to access, require loose-fill insulation
or if you?re not sure, it?s best to call a pro.
Installing the insulation properly can be almost as important as
the amount you decide to install. Gaps and compressed areas can
lower R-value by as much as 30 percent. And adding insulation won't
solve problems caused by air leaks in the home's thermal envelope.
It's best to seal air leaks before adding insulation.
Existing
Home Insulation Guide
Fiberglass
Blankets and Batts
Use: attics, knee walls, floors
R-value: R-3.1 to R-4.2 per inch
Made from: molten sand and up to 30 percent recycled glass
Installed by: do-it-yourselfers, professionals
Advantages:
- dimensionally
stable-will not settle after installation
- inorganic-will
not rot, mildew or cause corrosion to metal objects;
- non-combustible
(but backing on faced batts or blankets is)
Disadvantages:
- Irritant
to skin, lungs during installation
- Takes a
good amount of labor, time
Comments: use
un-faced (no paper backing) varieties when adding over existing
insulation. It there-s no previous insulation, turn the paper backing
up when installing in floors, down when in the attic. You should
see the insulation, not the paper, when installed. The paper helps
reduce moisture flow. Both sold in rolls, blankets are one continuous
piece while batts are pre-cut to fit standard construction dimensions.

Fiberglass
Loose-Fill
Use: attics
R-value: 2.2 to 2.6 per inch
Made from: molten sand and up to 30 percent recycled glass
Installed by: professionals
Advantages:
- inorganic-will
not rot, mildew or cause corrosion to metal objects;
- non-combustible
- less labor
intensive than blankets and batts
Disadvantages:
- Contractor
can "fluff" to give appearance of more insulation than actually
present
Comments:
Use manufacturers' charts to determine the number of bags needed
to reach the desired R-value for your square footage-don't go
by depth.

Cellulose
Loose Fill
Use: attics
R-value: 3.4 to 3.8 per inch
Made from: recycled news print (treated with fire retardant)
Installed by: do-it-yourselfers, professionals
Advantages:
- 100 percent
recycled material; takes less energy to manufacture
- higher
R-value per inch than loose-fill fiberglass
- higher
density helps to seal air leaks
Disadvantages:
- may absorb
excess moisture in humid climates
- can be
dusty
Comments: many
home improvement stores rent blowers for do-it-yourself cellulose
installation
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